I felt like everything would go just fine
even though trade winds were against us.
Every initial plan was ruined. Strong winds hit the coastline each day and made surfing in the Ocean impossible. The wind arrived on shore, and the current was strong. We get the car and drive to the South. We change the plan: each and every day we’ll drive for long hours to reach other surfing spots.
We put our boards in the car and go. Surfing an island turned out to be thrilling. As it’s surrounded by ocean on all sides, you know there’ll always be a good spot to surf, you just have to find it. Things were getting better, and our determination to hit the waves paid off. Surfing along huge turtles is something us Europeans don’t easily forget.
We traveled to so many spots we lost track of count. Our ultimate challenge was surfing the Soup Bowl, a spot located near the town of Bathsheba, in the East, where waves arrive after having traveled undisturbed for thousands of miles in the open sea, before breaking on the shore. One of the best waves in the world.
We mount into the car again. Our gazes are already riding the waves caressing the shore. They come from a distance, undisturbed by sandbars, reefs and land. While we unload our stuff, the waves breath into our ears. They break and rumble. As the sea’s foam reaches our feet I’m already holding the board. It’s the first time I’m doing reef breaks and in front of me there are huge stand-up barrels.
I’m scared. Fran is preparing his camera to film and Primoz was injured so he’s not surfing with me this time. It’s windy.
The wind is raging:
it could be a good excuse to delay my entry in water.
When the wind ceases, I see it as a sign to get rid of thoughts and fears. As I start paddling out I still haven’t managed to do so though and I have some difficult take offs. I ride my first waves without much confidence. Soup Bowl’s breaks are hard. as I’m still trying to clear out my mind from negative thoughts, somebody calls my name from the water. A girl I met once in the Canaries is waving at me. I’m amazed and surprised, and ironically, after meeting her, I get rid of all fears. Everything suddenly feels familiar and under control, even though it might have not been. I feel home in the blue.
Pictures. Primoz Zorko
Artwork. Ángela Palacios
Words. Albert Folch with Vincenzo Angileri
Presented by Eldorado
Produced by Republicana de Cine
Executive Producers. Guille Cascante, Albert Folch, Rafa Martínez
Editor in chief. Vincenzo Angileri
Filmed by Fran Torres
Editor. Arturo Bastón
Music. from Antarctica by Windy & Carl