The moon waits on the horizon, yellow-tinted, like a golden medal, slowly rising, fading behind swathes of milky clouds and fog.
The singing of the birds and the hoppers quiets down. During sunset they were playing a wild orchestra all around us, dramatically working towards a climax, getting louder until, as if in tune with the light, they suddenly went silent. It’s the hour of the Spirits, slowly entering the Nakamal through cracks in the concrete. They have come from the bush, and fall over the world.
Hushed voices glide into the night.
The silence is deafening. People sit separately and there’s no light except for some phones and a small solar lamp illuminating the space, drawing deep and dark shadows on people’s faces. Kava is served carefully into coconut shells. I take the shell knowing it’s something holy. People spit. The flying foxes are hunting now. One of them spreads its wings wide open and slides over the palm trees. My eyes follow his flight across the sky. The Kava has called for him, until suddenly he disappears back again into the night.
The spirits are here.
This is a place where people meet them.
Where they leave their bodies silently and fade away.
Wash out, become calm and cold and wet.
A quiet place.
A dark place.
A spiritual place.
Ocean Water Earth
Root Kava Pee Wind Trees Shadow
Moon Clouds Howling The stoney road
We watch the black bush. It’s us and the earth now. Juice runs down our throats. The Kava starts to have its effect and the spitting becomes more intense. I can feel the moon, the strongest of all Spirits. She moves my blood like the tides of the ocean, pulling me back and forth, back and forth. With a numb tongue I stare at her, at Luna in all her beauty and strength. She is my mother and sister. I hear the ocean moving, overlaid by the wild barking of the dogs in the village.
All my past, my future and my present are how they should be.
I am here.
Photography & Words by Ramin Aryaie
A Film by Ramin Aryaie
Editor in Chief Vincenzo Angileri
Executive Producers Albert Folch, Rafa Martínez & Guille Cascante
Editor Bernat Granados
Script by Valerie Steenhaut
Voiceover by Mads Vine
Edited by Valerie Steenhaut & Bis Turnor
Artwork by John Zabawa
Reading: Ishmael, Daniel Quinn