It feels like everything will go just fine. Still, trade winds are against us.
Every initial plan is completely screwed up. Strong winds hit our coast each day: surfing in the Ocean side is impossible. The wind is on shore, the current is very strong. With these conditions it’s time to get in the car and drive to the south coast. This is it: despite our initial planning, each and every day we have to drive for long hours to reach the other spots.
We stick our boards on the car and go. It was far from the isolated spots we had in mind but surfing on the other side of the island wasn’t bad at all. Surfing in an island is thrilling: As it is surrounded from ocean swell from all sides, you know for sure there is a good spot to surf, it’s just about finding it. Things were getting better, our determination paid off. And surfing together with those huge turtles is something Europeans like us can not easily forget.
We traveled to so many spots. And we constantly had in mind the challenge of surfing Soup Bowl. The spot is located near the town of Bathsheba on the east coast, where waves that have traveled undisturbed for thousands of miles in the open ocean finally break on the shore. This is a place for devoted surfers, with one of the best waves in the world.
We alight the car. Our gazes are already riding the wave coming to shore. It’s coming from a distance, undisturbed by sandbars, reefs or land. While we unload our stuff, the wave shines and breath in the early morning light. It breaks, and rumbles. As the seafoam reaches our feet I am already holding my surfboard. It’s the first I challenge reef breaks. In front of me there are huge stand-up barrels. I don’t feel relaxed to be honest. I am really frightened. Fran was preparing his camera to film, Primoz was injured and could not surf with me. It’s windy. I was about to break the spot alone.
As the seafoam reaches our feet I am already holding my surfboard. It’s the first I challenge reef breaks. In front of me there are huge stand-up barrels. I don’t feel relaxed to be honest. I am really frightened. Fran was preparing his camera to film, Primoz was injured and could not surf with me. It’s windy. I was about to break the spot alone.
The wind gives a bit of relief,
it could be a good excuse to delay my entry in water.
When the wind ceases, well, I know I have to get rid of this thoughts and fears. As I start paddling out I still haven’t managed to do so. I have some difficult take offs. I ride my first waves without too much confidence. Soup Bowl’s breaks are very challenging. I was still trying to clear out my mind from negative thoughts when somebody calls my name from within the water: a girl I met once in the Canaries is weaving me. We had met in the Spanish off-coasts archipelago a few years before, we have a short talk. I am amazed and surprised: ironically, only with meeting her, I did away with all my fears. Everything started seeming familiar and under control, even though it wasn’t. It’s a great sensation, that just came out of the blue. I feel home.
Pictures. Primoz Zorko
Artwork. Ángela Palacios
Words. Albert Folch with Vincenzo Angileri
Presented by Eldorado
Produced by Republicana de Cine
Executive Producers. Guille Cascante, Albert Folch, Rafa Martínez
Editor in chief. Vincenzo Angileri
Filmed by Fran Torres
Editor. Arturo Bastón
Music. from Antarctica by Windy & Carl